I've been an ardent fan of Jamie Oliver since his early days as a twenty-something chef and television personality. Back then he was going by the less, er, dignified sobriquet of The Naked Chef (the food was pared down and naked, not him). Since then, he's published five cookbooks (with the sixth, "Jamie's Italian," to be published Stateside this fall) and appeared in two television programs ( The Naked Chef and Oliver's Twist ), started a charity which educates and employees at-risk youth at his restaurant Fifteen (he filmed the process in an award-winning documentary called Jamie's Kitchen ), launched a line of cookware, gotten married, and had two kids. Needless to say, he's a busy guy and extremely driven. This is a man who can do just about anything he sets out to do. Still, I had some reservations when I heard that Jamie was going to attempt the impossible: to spend a year and a half investigating and improving the poor quality of children'